Just look at our files they're THIS BIG! Just imagine the quality - so how big are our files?
If you're looking for a measure of image quality checking the size of data files is a very poor guide, let me try to explain. The basic variables that determine the quality factor are the number of bits / dots per inch, the number of bits used to express the colour of each bit, well that's about it. The third factor that comes into this is the file type - typically jpg or TIFF.
I hope it's obvious that when scanning a slide, scanning a photo or scanning a negative the higher the number of bits per inch the better the quality of the image. Well, to a point anyway. If we scan a print a 600 dpi image is inherently more detailed than a 300 dpi scan. However there does come a point at which increasing the dpi rating achieves nothing more, you're just taking a more detailed picture of the grain or paper fibres. From tests we've done, using the scanning devices we have here, the highest scan quality for a photo is 600 dpi and a 35mm slide / negative is 4,000 dpi.
Second, there is the question of the number of bits used to measure the colour of the dot the scanner sees. You need (for a colour image) a red value, a green value and a blue value. A 24 bit scan uses 8 bits for each value - that yields 256 different points between darkest red / green / blue and lightest value. The next step up from that would be 16 bits per colour per point, 48 bits. However this will generate a much bigger data file and you'll need software which can display this additional degree of subtlety.
So away goes the scanner, it looks at the number of points you've specified and gives them a colour value. The scanner will then output the result of all those measurements as a data file - which is where the choice of jpg or TIFF comes into play. The key difference is that a TIFF file is uncompressed (and so very large) while a jpg is compressed (and smaller). Somewhere along the way a programmer has written code which looks at all those point values and decides how a file can be compressed, with the goal of achieving a smaller file with minimal loss of quality.
Whilst the specification behind jpg compression is open to all programmers and software suppliers, the results of their work varies. From our experience there are noticeable differences between the efforts of Kodak, Microsoft, Adobe and Apple. And there are differences over time, and between products. If you take a TIFF file and save it as a jpg using an early version of Photoshop, a recent version and Photoshop Elements, you get a different result (for the same degree of requested compression). Today's version of Aperture creates smaller high quality files than did the first version of Aperture.
Put most plainly, a 4000 dpi 24 bit jpg saved across these products gives files of different sizes. Which is the "right" one? Take your pick - mine would be for the latest versions of Photoshop and Aperture. Should you necessarily conclude that a scan made using the same scanner but output via one rather than the other is better just because the file is bigger? I don't think so, so don't be mislead by this single factor.
Tuesday, November 13, 2012
Saturday, October 27, 2012
End of an Era, or Two
Today marks an end of a couple of initiatives / changes to our offerings.
First, the scanner buy back scheme is ending. We've run the scanner amnesty for several months and many cheap and nasty scanners have been sent to scanner heaven (or hell). I've spoken to a couple of people and if they get their scanners in to us this next week we'll honour their machines, but for the rest of you .... sorry, it's over.
Second, we're making changes to our video conversion services, details on the product pages. Given this has been a successful part of our offerings why stop? First, demand has dropped. Obviously there are only so many video tapes to be converted and there have been times when we've felt they've all been in the hutch. However volumes have been noticeably down since the early part of the year.
We have also seen significant growth across the other areas of our services. We're doing over twice as many photos as we were a year ago, and we're getting many more orders with fewer than 200 photos. This means we need more space for incoming / outgoing parcels and as the hutch doesn't have elastic walls, something had to give. Getting rid of all the boxes needed to convert videos will free up a lot of space.
The third reason is to enable us to concentrate better on the areas of the business that we want to grow - photo scanning and slide scanning. The growth here is significant and we don't want to spread ourselves too thinly.
First, the scanner buy back scheme is ending. We've run the scanner amnesty for several months and many cheap and nasty scanners have been sent to scanner heaven (or hell). I've spoken to a couple of people and if they get their scanners in to us this next week we'll honour their machines, but for the rest of you .... sorry, it's over.
Second, we're making changes to our video conversion services, details on the product pages. Given this has been a successful part of our offerings why stop? First, demand has dropped. Obviously there are only so many video tapes to be converted and there have been times when we've felt they've all been in the hutch. However volumes have been noticeably down since the early part of the year.
We have also seen significant growth across the other areas of our services. We're doing over twice as many photos as we were a year ago, and we're getting many more orders with fewer than 200 photos. This means we need more space for incoming / outgoing parcels and as the hutch doesn't have elastic walls, something had to give. Getting rid of all the boxes needed to convert videos will free up a lot of space.
The third reason is to enable us to concentrate better on the areas of the business that we want to grow - photo scanning and slide scanning. The growth here is significant and we don't want to spread ourselves too thinly.
Wednesday, October 17, 2012
Screencast Pro
A recent project has resulted in creating a number of large video files - we're talking 8 Gb. Long, high quality HD movies. How can we share them?
One of the options I looked at is our Screencast Pro account. The desktop uploader program just came up with a bland error message. So I did some digging on the screencast.com site to see what the maximum file size would be, but found no answer.
Well, if you need to know the maximum file size screencast supports is 2 Gb.
One of the options I looked at is our Screencast Pro account. The desktop uploader program just came up with a bland error message. So I did some digging on the screencast.com site to see what the maximum file size would be, but found no answer.
Well, if you need to know the maximum file size screencast supports is 2 Gb.
Saturday, October 6, 2012
Slide Scanner - the Right Option
Looking for a slide scanner? That's us, if you're thinking of a service provider, but last week one potential client contacted me to say we're too cheap.
I can't remember the last time that happened, if at all, but in conversation a few interesting points emerged. In essence we covered the key dimensions of slide (or negative) scanning.
First, dpi - dots per inch. We scan slides at 4,000 dpi. In my opinion that's the maximum amount of data you can safely get out of such a tiny original. Second, file types. Most clients are more than happy with jpgs but some prefer TIFFs, we can handle both.
This, there's bit depth. As you know each dot is defined by a s et of three numeric values, one for each of the red, green or blue that makes up the colour the scanner sees at that point. Most scanners operate on the basis of there being 8 bits for each value, giving a range of 0 to 256, If however the scanner operates on a 16 bit scale the image will comprise a greater degree of definition in the precise colour value. If you can, try it, 16 bit colour is much better. But the data files are so much bigger, they take longer to load and manipulate. Finally there's the dynamic range the scanner can see. The greater the range the better able the scanner is to detect the subtle colour range in your images.
Back to our slide scanning client, if you want the best, what route is open to you today?
We love Nikon scanners, but sadly they are no longer in production. So you'll have to fight it out with the herd on eBay, and get hold os a used unit, with all that entails. take a look at the Epson range, for example the V750, including the bundled Silverfast software. Also capable of great results, available new, or possibly the H-P range. Both Nikon and Epson support hardware based dust and scratch reduction, which will save you hours retouching your scans.
But - and this is a big but - what if you want even better? Well the only other viable option I can see that ticks the new box and offers more than Nikon / Epson specs is the Imacon range from Hasselblad. Sadly I haven't used an Imacon but one of the best scans I have seen from a 35mm slide was made on an Imacon (using significant multiple exposure). it was truly breathtaking. But so too is the price of an Imacon scanner - around £20,000. Yes, if you want better than Nikon or Epson, dig deep in your pockets Mr Slide Scanner.
I can't remember the last time that happened, if at all, but in conversation a few interesting points emerged. In essence we covered the key dimensions of slide (or negative) scanning.
First, dpi - dots per inch. We scan slides at 4,000 dpi. In my opinion that's the maximum amount of data you can safely get out of such a tiny original. Second, file types. Most clients are more than happy with jpgs but some prefer TIFFs, we can handle both.
This, there's bit depth. As you know each dot is defined by a s et of three numeric values, one for each of the red, green or blue that makes up the colour the scanner sees at that point. Most scanners operate on the basis of there being 8 bits for each value, giving a range of 0 to 256, If however the scanner operates on a 16 bit scale the image will comprise a greater degree of definition in the precise colour value. If you can, try it, 16 bit colour is much better. But the data files are so much bigger, they take longer to load and manipulate. Finally there's the dynamic range the scanner can see. The greater the range the better able the scanner is to detect the subtle colour range in your images.
Back to our slide scanning client, if you want the best, what route is open to you today?
We love Nikon scanners, but sadly they are no longer in production. So you'll have to fight it out with the herd on eBay, and get hold os a used unit, with all that entails. take a look at the Epson range, for example the V750, including the bundled Silverfast software. Also capable of great results, available new, or possibly the H-P range. Both Nikon and Epson support hardware based dust and scratch reduction, which will save you hours retouching your scans.
But - and this is a big but - what if you want even better? Well the only other viable option I can see that ticks the new box and offers more than Nikon / Epson specs is the Imacon range from Hasselblad. Sadly I haven't used an Imacon but one of the best scans I have seen from a 35mm slide was made on an Imacon (using significant multiple exposure). it was truly breathtaking. But so too is the price of an Imacon scanner - around £20,000. Yes, if you want better than Nikon or Epson, dig deep in your pockets Mr Slide Scanner.
Monday, September 24, 2012
Flood Damaged Photos
The news has reported some areas of the UK have been hit by a month's worth of rain in just 24 hours, rivers are bursting their banks and householders are being flooded. Along with the soggy carpets and blown electronics people have to face the heart breaking loss of treasured family photos. If you've been flooded, what can you do?
First, get all photos (including slides and negatives) out of the water as soon as possible.
Second, which photos should you tackle first? I'd go for any images in photo frames. Carefully remove the photo from the frame, what you need to do - as carefully as possible - is to get the print away from the glass. If the image is wet there's a very good chance that if it dries in contact with the glass the image will fuse to it.
Third, slides and negatives. Carefully prize each strip apart. If the negatives are wet you won't do any more harm by washing any foul water or dirt off the surface using clean water. Then allow each strip to drip making sure each strip or slide is isolated. Never force dry any image however tempting it might seem. As negatives dry you'll probably find they twist. Don't worry about that you can either leave the twist in place or gently apply some pressure to get them back into shape.
Prints can be the most difficult. If you know the associated negatives are safe you can always get reprints made, if you only have the prints you have a challenge ahead. If the print is soiled and wet you can rinse it in clean water. Then you need to allow the print to dry. Ideally just lay the print FACE UP on blotting paper. The paper will absorb moisture and the print can dry slowly, minimising damage.
On no account should you allow the image side of any print to come into contact with the image side of any other print, the two may fuse together. If you don't have blotting paper place the prints FACE UP on towels, old sheets, washing up cloths. Allow your prints to dry slowly, never feel tempted to force drying (put that hair dryer down). Don't worry about prints curling as they dry.
Finally, probably in a few days, when your prints are finally dry you can stack them and apply light pressure to remove any curl.
Here's the sales plug. Once they're dry have the images scanned ASAP. You never know when the water will hit again, and you can't be sure discoloration won't set in over coming days. Plus you'll have a secure record of the photos that were damaged. If there is any staining or distortion it's far easier to correct digitally than trying to twist or re-colour an old print.
Some of the most serious damage will be photo albums. If the prints come loose treat them as described above. If the prints were stuck in the album use a sharp knife to remove the pages from the binding; stack each page safely upright, not touching any other. When finally dry, this will probably take longer that your other images, you can scan the photos or carefully remove the prints to put into another album.
First, get all photos (including slides and negatives) out of the water as soon as possible.
Second, which photos should you tackle first? I'd go for any images in photo frames. Carefully remove the photo from the frame, what you need to do - as carefully as possible - is to get the print away from the glass. If the image is wet there's a very good chance that if it dries in contact with the glass the image will fuse to it.
Third, slides and negatives. Carefully prize each strip apart. If the negatives are wet you won't do any more harm by washing any foul water or dirt off the surface using clean water. Then allow each strip to drip making sure each strip or slide is isolated. Never force dry any image however tempting it might seem. As negatives dry you'll probably find they twist. Don't worry about that you can either leave the twist in place or gently apply some pressure to get them back into shape.
Prints can be the most difficult. If you know the associated negatives are safe you can always get reprints made, if you only have the prints you have a challenge ahead. If the print is soiled and wet you can rinse it in clean water. Then you need to allow the print to dry. Ideally just lay the print FACE UP on blotting paper. The paper will absorb moisture and the print can dry slowly, minimising damage.
On no account should you allow the image side of any print to come into contact with the image side of any other print, the two may fuse together. If you don't have blotting paper place the prints FACE UP on towels, old sheets, washing up cloths. Allow your prints to dry slowly, never feel tempted to force drying (put that hair dryer down). Don't worry about prints curling as they dry.
Finally, probably in a few days, when your prints are finally dry you can stack them and apply light pressure to remove any curl.
Here's the sales plug. Once they're dry have the images scanned ASAP. You never know when the water will hit again, and you can't be sure discoloration won't set in over coming days. Plus you'll have a secure record of the photos that were damaged. If there is any staining or distortion it's far easier to correct digitally than trying to twist or re-colour an old print.
Some of the most serious damage will be photo albums. If the prints come loose treat them as described above. If the prints were stuck in the album use a sharp knife to remove the pages from the binding; stack each page safely upright, not touching any other. When finally dry, this will probably take longer that your other images, you can scan the photos or carefully remove the prints to put into another album.
Sunday, September 23, 2012
On Being Let Down - or Not
Feedback from one of our clients, Stephanie, who kindly says -
"Thank you for your prompt and efficient service, I especially liked being able to view photos online, an unexpected bonus. It was also refreshing to view the photos online, an unexpected bonus. It was also refreshing that you actually sent the pictures before being paid, very trusting. I hope you don't get let down too often."
So, why send before payment? This is a bit of a bee in my bonnet, paying in advance. Pretty much everything I buy, in our local High Street, at Lakeside or Bluewater you can touch and feel before you get to the till. Marks & Spencer have built a brilliant reputation in their generous returns policy. I hesitated when I started to use Amazon but I've had experiences when I've had to return items and they too are brilliant. I'd like 1Scan's clients to have the same peace of mind and returning work first, then invoicing, does, I hope, give you that feeling.
How often have we been let down? This year there are two events that have raised my blood pressure and turned me into Victor Meldrew. Earlier this year I was contacted by a teacher at a public school in London. She was arranging a class photobook (nice idea) but she had to get the ball rolling. Would I be prepared to scan first, then be paid about six weeks later when the book is sold. Idiot me said OK.
Fast forward to September, our invoice isn't paid. Teacher has moved on, school denies any responsibility even though deal was confirmed on school headed notepaper. Do I sue for a few quid or bite the bullet? Sure it's a matter of principle but for much less than £75 is it really worth the bother?
Then just as I was closing down on Friday I got an email newsletter from Head Teacher of a local secondary school (budget £6M+). Over the earlier months of this year I've scanned 300 to 400 prints to drum up support for a fund raising day. I haven't charged, and don't expect any money, but was told I'd get a mention in their publicity. So I was particularly annoyed to see in the newsletter that every other company involved (including at least one who'd charged for their services) was fulsomely thanked and their company logos / adverts reproduced in front of over 3,000 parents. Was 1Scan there? No.
Yes Stephanie, we do get let down. Despite this we'll continue to scan, mail, then charge - I'd feel bad doing it any other way. But if another school asks for a concession, or a freebie, forget it; two bad apples have blown it for the rest.
"Thank you for your prompt and efficient service, I especially liked being able to view photos online, an unexpected bonus. It was also refreshing to view the photos online, an unexpected bonus. It was also refreshing that you actually sent the pictures before being paid, very trusting. I hope you don't get let down too often."
So, why send before payment? This is a bit of a bee in my bonnet, paying in advance. Pretty much everything I buy, in our local High Street, at Lakeside or Bluewater you can touch and feel before you get to the till. Marks & Spencer have built a brilliant reputation in their generous returns policy. I hesitated when I started to use Amazon but I've had experiences when I've had to return items and they too are brilliant. I'd like 1Scan's clients to have the same peace of mind and returning work first, then invoicing, does, I hope, give you that feeling.
How often have we been let down? This year there are two events that have raised my blood pressure and turned me into Victor Meldrew. Earlier this year I was contacted by a teacher at a public school in London. She was arranging a class photobook (nice idea) but she had to get the ball rolling. Would I be prepared to scan first, then be paid about six weeks later when the book is sold. Idiot me said OK.
Fast forward to September, our invoice isn't paid. Teacher has moved on, school denies any responsibility even though deal was confirmed on school headed notepaper. Do I sue for a few quid or bite the bullet? Sure it's a matter of principle but for much less than £75 is it really worth the bother?
Then just as I was closing down on Friday I got an email newsletter from Head Teacher of a local secondary school (budget £6M+). Over the earlier months of this year I've scanned 300 to 400 prints to drum up support for a fund raising day. I haven't charged, and don't expect any money, but was told I'd get a mention in their publicity. So I was particularly annoyed to see in the newsletter that every other company involved (including at least one who'd charged for their services) was fulsomely thanked and their company logos / adverts reproduced in front of over 3,000 parents. Was 1Scan there? No.
Yes Stephanie, we do get let down. Despite this we'll continue to scan, mail, then charge - I'd feel bad doing it any other way. But if another school asks for a concession, or a freebie, forget it; two bad apples have blown it for the rest.
Friday, September 21, 2012
Don't Use Us
As you probably know, we upload scanned photos into an online photo album. It's a great way for you to access your images quickly, to share them with friends and family, and access a range of associated services. This includes prints from your scans. You get a quick, good quality service with prompt postal delivery.
Over the last three years many people have taken advantage of the associated services, although sales of prints on drinks coasters have fallen below expectations.
So here goes - don't use our online service. Why? Why, when it's so good?
Simply because you can get better. The suppliers our online service use are a fine balance of price and service. If you want top quality then you need a specialist supplier. Which one? We're pointing people in the direction of point101.com who are able to deliver a top quality range of prints. There are times when only the best will do, so check out point 101 soon.
Over the last three years many people have taken advantage of the associated services, although sales of prints on drinks coasters have fallen below expectations.
So here goes - don't use our online service. Why? Why, when it's so good?
Simply because you can get better. The suppliers our online service use are a fine balance of price and service. If you want top quality then you need a specialist supplier. Which one? We're pointing people in the direction of point101.com who are able to deliver a top quality range of prints. There are times when only the best will do, so check out point 101 soon.
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